Mount Grenfell Historic Site

Mount Grenfell Historic Site lies in Cubba, in the red-dirt and mallee country west of Cobar. NSW National Parks describes the Ngiyampaa (pronounced nee-yam-par) as dryland people of the arid plains and rocky hill country of Central West NSW, an area roughly bordered by the Lachlan, Darling-Barwon and Bogan rivers. The semi-permanent waterhole at Mount Grenfell was a meeting place for generation after generation.

After European settlement, NPWS says Ngiyampaa people were moved to stations north-west of Wiradjuri country. In the 1930s, many were relocated again to Murrin Bridge near Lake Cargelligo. On 17 July 2004, Mount Grenfell was handed back to its traditional owners, and it is now jointly managed with NPWS. Ngiyampaa people keep strong connections with the area and continue to pass on cultural knowledge.

The rock art

NPWS says the art covers the rocky overhangs around the waterhole and depicts all aspects of Aboriginal life. You'll see human and stick figures, birds and animals, medicine, food, waterways, the landscape and Dreaming stories. Many images are linear paintings made by applying wet pigment with a fingertip or a natural brush. In places, ochre and white pipeclay were applied thickly and left to dry. Others are stencils, made by blowing a mouthful of pigment over a hand held against the rock. Hand stencils are of ceremonial significance to traditional owners. More recent paintings have been layered over older ones.

The pigments are red and yellow ochres, which come from naturally tinted clay. Look at the art, but never touch it. See our guides to rock art sites and visiting Country respectfully.

Walks

• Mount Grenfell art site walk. 3 km return, grade 3, with 1.5–2.5 hours suggested. From the picnic area, an easy walk past mallee and cypress pine leads to three galleries of rock art. NPWS invites you to take your time and imagine people gathering here to talk, pass on knowledge and take part in ceremonies.
• Ngiyampaa walking track. A 4 km loop, grade 4 (moderately challenging), with 1.5–2.5 hours suggested. It follows the range to Choy trig station on the summit of Mount Grenfell, past unusual rock formations and mallee. The rocky lookout at the top has wide views across the flat country, the traditional land of the Ngiyampaa Wangaaypuwan people, and makes a good picnic spot. NPWS spells the name both Ngiyampaa and Ngiyambaa.

Bring drinking water, a hat and sunscreen on both walks.

Wildlife

Emus and kangaroos live at Mount Grenfell, and emus also appear in the rock art. On warmer days, look for bearded dragons, shinglebacks and geckos. NPWS also asks you to look out for the endangered kultarr, also called the jerboa pouched-mouse, wuhl-wuhl or pitchi-pitchi, which it describes as a mouse that hops. Red-capped robins forage in the leaf litter, often in mixed flocks with thornbills.

Getting there

From Cobar, drive 40 km west on the Barrier Highway and turn right at the Mount Grenfell sign. Follow this road for about 30 km, then turn right into the historic site. Continue along the gravel road to the picnic area, which has toilets and picnic tables. NPWS lists Cobar as about 70 km away, Tilpa about 160 km and Bourke about 230 km.

Weather and when to visit

NPWS gives these figures:

• Summer. Averages of 20–33°C, with a recorded high of 47°C.
• Winter. Averages of 5.5–16.5°C, with a recorded low of −2.5°C.
• Rainfall. January is the wettest month and June the driest.

NPWS recommends winter for the Ngiyampaa walking track, and spring for white mallee flowers and the best birdwatching.

Practical information

• Opening. Always open, but the site may close in poor weather, in high fire danger or for cultural activities.
• Phones. Mobile reception is limited; download the Emergency Plus app before you go.
• Pets. Not permitted. Smoking is not allowed.
• Contact. NPWS Dubbo office, 02 6841 7100.

Nearby, Cobar's heritage centre covers the region's mining history, and Gundabooka and Toorale near Bourke has more Aboriginal rock art at the Yapa (Mulgowan) art site.