Outback Now
Glen Helen Gorge in the West MacDonnell Ranges

National parks · Northern Territory

Tjoritja / West MacDonnell National Park

Stretching west from Alice Springs, Tjoritja / West MacDonnell National Park protects a chain of gorges, waterholes and ridges on Arrernte Country.

Photo: Toby Hudson, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

By the Outback Now editorial team · Updated · 4 min read

Tjoritja / West MacDonnell National Park runs for about 160 km along the West MacDonnell Ranges from Alice Springs. The ranges are among the oldest on earth, and their gaps and waterholes are places of great significance for the Western Arrernte people.

Highlights

  • Simpsons Gap (Rungutjirpa) — a short drive from Alice, with black-footed rock-wallabies.
  • Standley Chasm (Angkerle Atwatye) — a narrow chasm, run by the local Aboriginal community; an entry fee applies.
  • Ellery Creek Big Hole — a deep waterhole for swimming.
  • Serpentine Gorge and Ochre Pits — a narrow gorge and a site where Arrernte people have collected ochre.
  • Ormiston Gorge — towering walls and a popular swimming hole; the Ormiston Pound walk.
  • Glen Helen Gorge — where the Finke River cuts through the ranges.
  • Redbank Gorge and Mount Sonder (Rwetyepme) — the western end of the Larapinta Trail.

The Larapinta Trail

The trail runs about 230 km from the Alice Springs Telegraph Station to Mount Sonder, in 12 sections. It can be walked end to end or in parts, and guided treks operate. Plan water and food drops carefully.

Camping

Campgrounds at Ellery Creek, Ormiston Gorge, Redbank Gorge and others require bookings through NT Parks.

Seasons

April to September is best. Summer heat is extreme, and some walks are closed in high temperatures.

Geology

The West MacDonnell Ranges are the eroded remains of mountains that were pushed up hundreds of millions of years ago. Rivers such as the Finke, which is often described as one of the oldest rivers in the world, have cut gorges and gaps through the ranges as they rose. Layers of quartzite, sandstone and limestone create the striking red, orange and purple cliffs that glow at sunrise and sunset.

Western Arrernte Country

For the Western Arrernte people, the ranges, gaps and waterholes are part of a living cultural landscape linked to the creation stories. Many sites are sacred, and some areas are closed to visitors. Standley Chasm (Angkerle Atwatye) is owned and operated by the local Aboriginal community, and the Ochre Pits remain an important source of ochre. Read our visiting Country respectfully guide.

Wildlife

Black-footed rock-wallabies are often seen at Simpsons Gap, especially in the early morning and late afternoon. The permanent waterholes attract birds, including zebra finches, budgerigars and spinifex pigeons. Reptiles are common in the warmer months. See our outback wildlife guide.

Driving the West Macs

Namatjira Drive and Larapinta Drive run west from Alice Springs through the park, and are sealed as far as Glen Helen and Hermannsburg. The Mereenie Loop, linking the West Macs with Kings Canyon, is unsealed and requires a Mereenie Tour Pass, as it crosses Aboriginal land. Check road conditions with the Road Report NT before travelling.

Suggested day trip from Alice Springs

Leave early for Simpsons Gap, then continue to Standley Chasm around midday, when the sun lights up the chasm walls. In the afternoon, visit Ellery Creek Big Hole, the Ochre Pits and Ormiston Gorge, then return to Alice Springs, or better, camp overnight at Ormiston.

Walking safety

Carry plenty of water on all walks, start early and avoid walking in the heat of the day. Some walks close when temperatures are extreme. Tell someone your plans for longer walks, and carry a PLB on the Larapinta Trail. See our remote-area travel safety guide.

Camping and accommodation

Campgrounds at Ellery Creek, Ormiston Gorge, Redbank Gorge and others are booked through NT Parks. Glen Helen has a lodge and camping. Alice Springs has a full range of accommodation.

Planning the Larapinta Trail

The Larapinta Trail's 12 sections vary from easy walks to steep, rocky climbs. Many walkers tackle it over two to three weeks, while others walk a few sections at a time. Water tanks are located at trailheads and some campsites, but supplies must be planned carefully, and food drops can be arranged at certain points. The cooler months from May to August are the most popular; nights can be below freezing. Guided and supported treks are available for those who prefer not to carry everything. Always register your walk, carry a PLB and check trail conditions before setting out.

Nearby

Hermannsburg (Ntaria), a historic mission settlement linked with the artist Albert Namatjira, lies to the south-west via Larapinta Drive, and Finke Gorge National Park, with Palm Valley, is a 4WD destination beyond it.

Tnorala (Gosse Bluff)

West of the ranges, Tnorala Conservation Reserve protects Gosse Bluff, the eroded remains of a crater formed by a comet or asteroid impact millions of years ago. It is a sacred site for the Western Arrernte people. Access is by unsealed road and the Mereenie Loop, and a permit may be required for parts of the route; check with NT Parks.

Mobile coverage and communications

Mobile coverage is limited in the West MacDonnell Ranges, with patchy reception at some sites. Carry a satellite device for remote walks, particularly on the Larapinta Trail, and register your walk with NT Parks where possible.

Drones and photography

Drone use in NT parks requires a permit. Gorges such as Ormiston and Redbank are best photographed in morning and late afternoon light, when the cliffs glow red.

Frequently asked questions

Do you need a permit to walk the Larapinta Trail?

Walkers should register their trip and must book campsites where required. Check NT Parks for current requirements, fees and trail conditions.

Can you swim at Ormiston Gorge and Ellery Creek Big Hole?

Both are popular swimming spots, but the water is very cold, even in summer, and there are no lifeguards. Swim only if you are confident, and follow park signs.

Can you swim in the West MacDonnells?

Swimming is popular at waterholes such as Ellery Creek Big Hole, Ormiston Gorge and Glen Helen, but the water is very cold, even in summer. Check signs and park alerts.

Do you need a 4WD?

No. Namatjira Drive is sealed to most major sites. Some side tracks, such as Redbank Gorge, include gravel.

Sources and further reading

Facts on this page were checked against these primary and official sources. Conditions change — confirm before you travel or buy.

  1. Standley Chasm (Angkerle Atwatye) — Standley Chasm
  2. Tjoritja / West MacDonnell National Park — NT Government
  3. Larapinta Trail — NT Government