Carnarvon Gorge

Carnarvon Gorge is the best-known section of Carnarvon National Park in central Queensland, about 245 km north of Roma via Injune, or south of Emerald via Rolleston. Carnarvon Creek has carved a gorge up to 200 m deep through white sandstone, creating a lush oasis of palms, ferns and side canyons. The area holds deep significance for the Bidjara, Karingbal and other Aboriginal peoples, and its rock art galleries are among the finest in Australia.

Highlights

• Moss Garden. A side gorge where water seeps through sandstone to feed a dripping wall of mosses and ferns, with a small waterfall.
• The Amphitheatre. A huge chamber inside the rock, reached by a series of ladders through a narrow crack.
• Ward's Canyon. A cool side gorge home to king ferns, among the largest ferns in the world.
• Art Gallery. A long sandstone wall covered with stencils, engravings and paintings. A boardwalk protects the art.
• Cathedral Cave. A large overhang with extensive rock art.
• Boolimba Bluff. A steep climb from the visitor area to sweeping views over the gorge and ranges.
• Platypus spotting. Look for platypus in quiet pools of Carnarvon Creek at dawn and dusk.

Walking the gorge

The main track follows Carnarvon Creek for about 9.7 km to Big Bend, crossing the creek many times on stepping stones. Side tracks lead to the main attractions. Most visitors walk to Cathedral Cave or Big Bend and back in a long day, visiting side gorges on the way. Start early, carry plenty of water and wear sturdy shoes. The Carnarvon Great Walk, a multi-day hike through the ranges, is for experienced and well-prepared walkers.

Camping and accommodation

The national park camping area at the gorge opens only during some school holiday periods, and must be booked through Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service. Outside those times, private campgrounds, cabins and a lodge just outside the park offer accommodation. Book well ahead for peak season.

Getting there

From Roma, drive north through Injune; from Emerald, drive south through Springsure and Rolleston. The final road into the gorge is mostly sealed but may include gravel and creek crossings, which can flood after rain. There is no fuel in the park; fill up in Injune or Rolleston. Check QLDTraffic and park alerts before travelling.

Seasons

April to October is the best time, with mild days and cool nights. Summer is hot and humid, with storms and possible flooding.

Respecting rock art

Carnarvon's rock art is fragile and irreplaceable. Stay behind barriers, never touch the art, and do not use flash photography. See our rock art sites guide.

Suggested two days

Day one. Walk to the Moss Garden, Amphitheatre and Ward's Canyon, returning in the afternoon. Look for platypus at dusk.

Day two. Walk to the Art Gallery and Cathedral Cave, or climb Boolimba Bluff for sunrise views.

Tips

• Book accommodation early, especially for school holidays.
• Bring water and snacks; there are no shops along the track.
• Allow extra time for photography and side trips.

Geology and water

Carnarvon Creek has cut through layers of sandstone, including the Precipice Sandstone, which forms part of the recharge area of the Great Artesian Basin. Rain falling on the plateau soaks into the porous rock and seeps out of the gorge walls, feeding springs, mosses and ferns. This constant water supply allows plants such as king ferns, cabbage tree palms and remnant rainforest species to survive in the gorge's cool side canyons, far from the coast.

Aboriginal history

The gorge has been important to Aboriginal people for many thousands of years. The stencils of hands, boomerangs and other objects at the Art Gallery and Cathedral Cave record a long and continuing connection. Bidjara and Karingbal people, among others, maintain strong links to the area. Interpretive signs explain some of the meaning of the art, but much remains culturally restricted knowledge.

What to bring

Bring sturdy footwear that can get wet at creek crossings, a hat, sunscreen, insect repellent, at least two to three litres of water per person for a long walk, and lunch. Phone coverage is limited in the gorge.

Beyond the gorge

Carnarvon National Park has other sections, including Mount Moffatt, Salvator Rosa and Ka Ka Mundi. These are more remote, with rough roads and few facilities, but offer sandstone formations, rock art and solitude for experienced, self-sufficient travellers with 4WD vehicles. Check park alerts and road conditions before attempting them.

Mickey Creek and the Rock Pool

Near the park entrance, short side walks away from the main gorge are quieter alternatives. Mickey Creek Gorge is a narrow sandstone side gorge reached by a short track, where you can scramble a little way between the walls. The Rock Pool, a designated swimming spot on Carnarvon Creek, is a good place to cool off after a day's walking — check park signs, as conditions change after rain.

Wildlife watching at dusk

Carnarvon Gorge is excellent for wildlife. Eastern grey kangaroos, whiptail wallabies and rufous bettongs are often seen at dusk around the camping areas, and greater gliders have been spotted on spotlighting walks in the past; ask the park or accommodation providers about current guided night walks. Platypus are best looked for in quiet pools at dawn and dusk.

Photography and drones

The gorge's high walls mean light arrives late and leaves early; plan photos of the cliffs for mid-morning or late afternoon. Drone use in Queensland national parks generally needs permission from Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service, and is not appropriate near rock art sites.

Related guides

• Roma
• Emerald
• Mitchell
• Great Inland Way
• Rock art sites