Croydon

Croydon lies on the Country of the Tagalaka people, on the Gulf Developmental Road (part of the Savannah Way) about 150 km east of Normanton. Today it is a quiet town of a few hundred people, but in the late 1880s it was a booming goldfield. Its well-preserved heritage precinct and the historic Gulflander railway make it one of the most rewarding stops in the Gulf Country.

Croydon's gold rush

Gold was discovered on Croydon station in 1885. Within a few years thousands of people had arrived, and Croydon became one of the largest towns in Queensland at the time. Miners came from across Australia and abroad, including a large Chinese community. As the easily worked gold ran out in the early 20th century, the population fell sharply. Many buildings disappeared, but the government buildings at the heart of town survived and have been restored.

Things to do in Croydon

• Heritage precinct. The courthouse, police station and lock-up, mining warden's office and town hall form a restored historic precinct. Interpretive displays bring the gold rush to life.
• True Blue Visitor Information Centre. Exhibits on local history and helpful information on the area.
• Croydon General Store. A historic store that has traded for well over a century.
• Chinese temple site. Archaeological remains of the temple tell the story of Croydon's Chinese miners and merchants.
• Lake Belmore. A reservoir just out of town for picnics, birdwatching and fishing.
• Old mining areas. Remnants of the goldfields lie around town. Stay away from old shafts, which can be dangerous.

The Gulflander

The Gulflander is a heritage rail motor running on the isolated line between Normanton and Croydon, built in the 1880s and 1890s with steel sleepers designed to cope with floods and termites. It runs a weekly service, mainly in the dry season. Many travellers ride one way and arrange a road transfer back, or travel out and back over two days. Check Queensland Rail for times and bookings.

Getting there

Croydon is on the sealed Gulf Developmental Road between Georgetown (to the east) and Normanton. From Cairns, allow a long day's drive via the Atherton Tablelands and Georgetown. The road crosses many creeks, which can flood in the wet season; check QLDTraffic before travelling.

Where to stay

Croydon has a caravan park, a historic hotel and motel-style rooms.

Suggested day in Croydon

Arrive on the Gulflander or by road, walk through the heritage precinct, visit the visitor centre and general store, then drive to Lake Belmore for sunset. Continue to Normanton and Karumba the next day.

When to visit

May to October is the dry season, with warm, sunny days. The wet season is hot and humid, and roads may close.

A town shaped by many cultures

Croydon's heritage displays highlight the different people who shaped the town. The Tagalaka people lived on this Country for thousands of years before the gold rush. Chinese miners, market gardeners and shopkeepers formed a substantial part of the population in the 1880s and 1890s, and the temple site and interpretive signs recall their contribution. European miners, publicans, police and teamsters built the rest of the town. When gold ran out, cattle stations became the backbone of the local economy.

Tips for visiting

• Book the Gulflander early. Seats are limited, especially in the peak winter season.
• Allow time. The heritage precinct is compact but full of detail; give it at least two hours.
• Carry water and a hat. Even in winter, days are warm and sunny.
• Watch for wildlife and cattle. The Gulf Developmental Road is unfenced in places.
• Plan fuel and supplies. Croydon has fuel and basic supplies, but choice is limited. Fill up when you can.
• Mind old mines. Old shafts and diggings around Croydon are dangerous; keep to marked areas.

Nearby

East of Croydon, Georgetown and the Undara Lava Tubes are classic stops on the Savannah Way. To the west, Normanton has Krys the giant crocodile replica and the Purple Pub, and Karumba is the place for Gulf sunsets and barramundi fishing.

Getting the most from a visit

If you are driving the Savannah Way west from Cairns, Croydon makes a good overnight stop after Georgetown. Arrive in the afternoon, explore the precinct in the golden light, and watch the sunset at Lake Belmore. In the morning, drive to Normanton. If you want to ride the Gulflander, time your trip to match its weekly schedule, and plan your accommodation around it.

Wet season note

From about December to March, heavy rain can flood creeks along the Gulf Developmental Road, and services may reduce. Check road conditions before travelling.

Fuel, phones and medical help

Croydon Primary Health Centre on Sircom Street is a nurse-led clinic. The nearest hospital is in Normanton.

Fuel (diesel and unleaded) is available in town. Normanton is about 156 km north-west, and Georgetown about 147 km east.

Travelling with kids

Children often enjoy the historic precinct and the Gulflander train, if it is running.

Croydon's heritage precinct

Croydon Shire Council says gold was discovered here in 1885. Its heritage precinct, which is free to visit, includes:

• Court House (c.1887). The oldest building in the precinct. The last court sat in 1926, and you can listen to an audio recording of a 1902 case.
• Town Hall (c.1890).
• Police Station and Gaol (c.1896).
• Police Sergeant's Residence (c.1898).

Look for the original kerosene street lamps as you walk around. Elsewhere in town, the council lists the Iguana Consul Mining Museum, the Chinese temple site, the cemetery, in use since 1885, and the Club Hotel, built in 1887.

The True Blue Visitor Centre is at 51–59 Samwell Street (07 4748 7152). The council lists hours of 9am–4:30pm weekdays, plus weekends, from May to October, and 8am–4pm weekdays from November to April.

Practical information

• Distance: about 150 km east of Normanton.
• Best time: May to October.
• Related: Normanton, Karumba, Savannah Way, Burketown, Outback history.

East along the Savannah Way: Cobbold Gorge and Undara.