Leonora and Gwalia

Leonora sits on the Goldfields Highway about 235 km north of Kalgoorlie-Boulder, in the northern Goldfields of Western Australia. Gold was found in the area in the 1890s, and Leonora remains a working mining town. Its neighbour, Gwalia, is one of the best-preserved mining ghost towns in Australia.

The story of Gwalia

Gwalia grew up around the Sons of Gwalia gold mine, which became one of the most productive mines in Western Australia. In 1898 a young American mining engineer, Herbert Hoover, worked as mine manager. He later became the 31st President of the United States.

The mine operated until December 1963. When it closed, the work disappeared and so did most of the town. Families left within weeks, abandoning tin and timber cottages, shops and the boarding house. Because so much was left in place, Gwalia now gives a rare picture of everyday life in a Goldfields mining community. Modern mining has since resumed in the area, so you may see active operations nearby.

Things to do in Leonora and Gwalia

• Gwalia Historic Precinct. Walk among the restored miners' cottages, the general store and other buildings. Many cottages are open, furnished as they were when the town emptied.
• Gwalia Museum. In the old mine office, with mining machinery, photographs and records, plus views over the modern open pit from the lookout.
• Hoover House. The restored mine manager's residence, with gardens and views. It has operated as bed-and-breakfast accommodation.
• Gwalia State Hotel. The impressive former State Hotel building is a landmark of the precinct.
• Leonora heritage walk. Leonora's main street has historic buildings from the gold rush era.
• Malcolm Dam. A historic dam built for the railway, about 15 km out of town, popular for picnics.

Day trips and nearby

• Lake Ballard. Near Menzies, south of Leonora, Antony Gormley's Inside Australia places dozens of metal figures across a salt lake. Camping is available at the site.
• Kookynie. A tiny near-ghost town with a historic hotel, south-east of Leonora.
• Laverton. To the east, the start of the Great Central Road (Outback Way) towards Uluru, which needs permits for Aboriginal land. See fuel, permits and road conditions.

Getting there

Leonora is on the sealed Goldfields Highway north of Kalgoorlie-Boulder via Menzies. It is a long way between towns, so fill up at every opportunity. Coolgardie and Kalgoorlie are the obvious bases to combine with a Goldfields loop.

Where to stay

Leonora has a caravan park, motel and hotel rooms. Mining activity can fill accommodation, so book ahead.

When to visit

April to October offers the most pleasant weather. Summer days are very hot.

Life in a Goldfields mining town

The Goldfields drew prospectors from around the world in the 1890s. Gwalia's workforce included many Italian and Slavic migrants, and you can see the boarding houses, simple corrugated-iron cottages and makeshift homes they built. Life was hard: water was scarce, summers were scorching, and mine work was dangerous. The museum and the cottages tell this story through the objects people left behind.

The wider region is also the Country of Aboriginal peoples whose connection long predates the gold rush. Ask at the Leonora visitor information centre about local cultural information.

Suggested day in Leonora and Gwalia

Arrive in the morning and start at the Gwalia Museum for the background on the mine and Herbert Hoover. Spend late morning walking through the historic precinct, allowing time to explore the cottages and the store. Have lunch in Leonora, then drive out to Malcolm Dam. If you have more time, continue south to Lake Ballard and camp overnight to see the sculptures at sunrise.

Tips

• Allow at least half a day for Gwalia; there is more to see than most people expect.
• Bring water and a hat. The precinct is spread out and exposed.
• Respect mine sites. Never enter abandoned shafts or mine leases; they can be unstable and are often private.
• Fuel up. Distances are long between Goldfields towns.

Combining Leonora with a Goldfields loop

Leonora fits neatly into a loop from Kalgoorlie-Boulder: north through Menzies (stopping at Lake Ballard), on to Leonora and Gwalia, east to Laverton, and back south through Kookynie. The loop is mostly on sealed roads, but some side roads are unsealed and become impassable after rain. Allow three to four days to see the highlights without rushing. Carry spare water, tell someone your plans, and check Main Roads WA for road conditions before you go.

Fuel, phones and medical help

Leonora Hospital on Sadie Canning Drive is run by WA Country Health Service. The nearest major hospital is in Kalgoorlie.

Fuel is available at two service stations in town. The next fuel south is Menzies (about 105 km), and Kalgoorlie, the main regional centre, is about 233 km south.

Travelling with kids

The historic Gwalia precinct can be fascinating for older children, especially the old mining relics and houses.

Visiting Gwalia Museum

The Gwalia Ghost Town and Museum website says:

• The Gwalia Museum is open from 9 am to 4 pm daily, except for a short break over Easter and over Christmas and New Year.
• The museum includes the miners' cottages, the mine office complex and an outdoor display of mining machinery next to the timber incline headframe and winder.
• Entry is free, though donations help fund the conservation of the ghost town.
• Drive directly to the museum on the hill to enter.
• Allow a couple of hours for the museum and Hoover House, then explore the cottages and other buildings.
• There's a free RV site outside the gates. Caravans may only use it when the Leonora Caravan Park is full.

Is Gwalia worth visiting?

Yes. It's an atmospheric gold-rush ghost town, and the museum and Hoover House tell the story of the Sons of Gwalia mine and the miners' families. It sits right beside Leonora. Combine it with Lake Ballard on a Goldfields loop.

Practical information

• Distance: about 235 km north of Kalgoorlie-Boulder.
• Best time: April to October.
• Related: Kalgoorlie-Boulder, Coolgardie, Outback WA, Outback history.

South of Leonora: Lake Ballard's Inside Australia sculptures, west of Menzies.