Milparinka

Milparinka lies in the Corner Country of far north-west New South Wales, about 40 km south of Tibooburra and about 300 km north of Broken Hill. It grew during the Albert goldfield rush of the 1880s and was briefly the main town of the district. When the gold ran out, the population drifted away, leaving a handful of sandstone buildings on the gibber plain. Today, thanks to local volunteers, Milparinka has a restored heritage precinct and is a fascinating stop on the road north.

Things to do in Milparinka

• Milparinka Heritage Precinct. The restored sandstone courthouse, police station and other buildings now house displays on the goldfields, pastoral history and Sturt's expedition. The precinct is run by volunteers; check opening times.
• Albert Hotel. A historic outback pub where you can stop for a drink, a meal or a chat with locals.
• Old cemetery. Graves of miners and early residents tell stories of life and death on the goldfields.
• Goldfields relics. Old diggings around Milparinka recall the rush. Stay away from old shafts.

Depot Glen and Poole's grave

About 14 km north-west of Milparinka, Depot Glen is a permanent waterhole on Preservation Creek where Charles Sturt's 1844–45 expedition, seeking an inland sea, was trapped for about six months by extreme heat and drought. Sturt's men built a stone cairn on nearby Mount Poole to keep busy. James Poole, Sturt's second-in-command, died of scurvy as the party finally prepared to move, and his grave lies near the waterhole beneath a tree carved with the date. The site is on pastoral land with public access; follow signs and leave gates as you find them.

Getting there

Milparinka is just off the Silver City Highway between Broken Hill and Tibooburra. Large sections of this highway have been sealed in recent years, but some gravel sections may remain and roads close after rain. Check Live Traffic NSW before travelling, and carry water and fuel.

Where to stay

The Albert Hotel offers accommodation, and there is camping nearby. Tibooburra has more options.

Combining Milparinka with Corner Country

Milparinka fits into a Corner Country trip with Tibooburra, Sturt National Park and Cameron Corner. Many travellers spend a few days exploring the region's granite tors, gibber plains and jump-ups. Read our outback safety guide before heading out.

History in brief

The Wangkumara and Malyangapa peoples lived in this region for thousands of years. Gold was discovered in the late 1870s and early 1880s, and the Albert goldfield drew thousands of miners despite the heat, dust and scarce water. Milparinka became the main town, with a courthouse, police station and hotels. As the alluvial gold ran out, the population fell, and the town shrank to a few residents.

Suggested day

Drive from Tibooburra in the morning, visit Depot Glen and Poole's grave, then explore the heritage precinct and have lunch at the Albert Hotel. Return to Tibooburra or continue south to Broken Hill.

When to visit

April to October is the most comfortable time. Summers are extreme, as Sturt discovered.

Tips

• Check road conditions before leaving Broken Hill.
• Carry water and fuel.
• Respect private land around Depot Glen.

Sturt's expedition

Charles Sturt set out from Adelaide in 1844 believing there was an inland sea in the heart of the continent. Instead, his party found gibber plains and dunes. Trapped at Depot Glen through the summer of 1845, they endured temperatures so high that ink dried on pens and screws fell out of wooden instruments, according to Sturt's account. After rain finally fell, the expedition pushed further north-west into the desert before returning to Adelaide. Sturt National Park and Sturt's desert pea, South Australia's floral emblem, are named after him.

Photography tips

The sandstone buildings glow at sunrise and sunset, when the low light brings out the texture of the stone and the colours of the gibber plain. The Milky Way is spectacular on clear nights. Remember to ask before photographing people, and respect private property.

Fuel, phones and medical help

There is no medical service in Milparinka itself. The nearest health service is Tibooburra Health Service, about 42 km north, and the nearest hospital is in Broken Hill.

Visit Corner Country says fuel is not available at Milparinka, so fill up in Tibooburra or Broken Hill (about 294 km south) before you arrive. The Albert Hotel serves meals.

Travelling with kids

Older children often enjoy the heritage precinct and the stories of Sturt's expedition, especially if you read up on it before you arrive.

The Mount Browne goldfield

Milparinka's existence owes much to gold. In the early 1880s, gold was found at Mount Browne, south of today's town, and prospectors flooded into the area despite the heat and lack of water. The rush was short-lived, but it led to the establishment of Milparinka as an administrative centre for the region.

The Milparinka Heritage Precinct

Visit Corner Country says Milparinka began as a shanty of tents beside the creek, which Charles Sturt named after his brother Evelyn. After the town was surveyed in the early 1880s, more substantial buildings went up on the sandstone plateau to the west. By the late 20th century everything except the hotel was a ruin. A community group then restored most of the heritage buildings and added purpose-built centres. The result is a heritage precinct with more than 20 separate areas across a one-hectare site, covering Aboriginal heritage, exploration and settlement, mining and geology.

The centrepiece is the sandstone courthouse, designed by Colonial Architect James Barnet and built in 1896 from local stone. Its vents, high ceilings and many windows were designed to keep the courtroom cool. The front room is now the visitor information centre, run by volunteers.

Inside the courthouse, the Malyangapa Cultural Heritage Room explains the kinship and moiety system of the Malyangapa people, illustrated with artwork by Malyangapa artist Shane Bates, including the rainbow serpent (Ngatyi) story. The adjoining Local History Room presents accounts of Aboriginal life in the area prepared by descendants.

Visit Corner Country lists entry at $10 per adult and $8 concession, with children free; the fee is paid at the visitor centre, which takes EFTPOS. Fees may change, so check before you go.

Practical information

• Distance: about 40 km south of Tibooburra; about 300 km north of Broken Hill.
• Best time: April to October.
• Related: Tibooburra, Sturt National Park, Cameron Corner, Broken Hill, Outback history.